Відео

It's a really under-rated performance combo, especially since the 3800 Series II motor can be massaged to make about as much power as the stock V8.

Not quite. LOL!

It's running EdgeTX.

So, are you asking for an explanation of telemetry and how it could be useful?

@@RCPhysicsYes, a ‘how to’ for setup. I’m new to rec. And was interested in adopting the MT12 to my various cars. Also boats. Watched a couple videos previously and everyone assumes a much higher level of understanding. Just looking for help getting started.

This ESC wasn't designed with a switch in mind, so there's no way to incorporate one that won't hurt performance. However, the XLX2, which replaced this ESC, does have a switch.

Thank you ,

There are a few ways to potentially get that kind of mode, but the best one will depend on your comfort level doing ESC tuning, radio setup, and the rig itself. 1) ESC Tuning: You could change the throttle curve in your Castle Link programming interface to limit the max RPMs of your motor. That would basically re-map your throttle inputs to give you tighter control over a reduced motor RPM range. You could then get a bit fancier by using an exponential (expo) curve that lets you keep a REALLY fine control over the lower rpm range, but steps things up dramatically at the high end of your throttle input so you can "dash" when needed. I talk a little about this here: ua-cam.com/video/6gpooI8DXu0/v-deo.htmlsi=GnRI3NriJupsWlIp&t=2661 I use expo curves on most of my cars, but I tend to set it up though my transmitter... which leads us to... 2) Radio Setup: Most mid-to-high end radios let you set up a throttle curve in the transmitter so you can fine tune the feel of your rig while driving. This has advantages since you don't need to stop and plug into a computer to fine tune your settings. Some radios like my Radiomaster MT-12 even have the ability to set up different driving modes, so I can flip a switch and completely change the feel and performance of my rigs. This can get a little complicated to set up, but it is extremely powerful once you get it right. This also gives you the most flexibility. And lastly... 3) Gearing: Depending on your crawler, you may be able to go to a SUPER-LOW gearset that will give you a high-torque, low-speed setup. This could be extremely effective, but it will greatly limit overall speed of the rig. I'm guessing this is probably not your preferred method though since you specifically asked about ESC tuning. Do you think I should do a video diving into this?

@@RCPhysics Yes I would love for you to do a specific crawler set up for the Castle Cobra 8 please 🙏 And thank you so very much for your knowledge well shared 👍

The developers are on the verge of a new software biuld which should be a little more attuned to the surface community, but you are pretty much dead on your assessment. I look at this as an early adopter tax. The system should only get better as more surface people enter the community. There are already people writing Lua scripts to improve the interface and add features that we surface people want, so it's only a matter of time before it gets a lot better. So maybe this isn't the right system for you now, but you should probably check again in a year or so.

I think you got a few things backwards. OpenTX/EdgeTX was and is developed to not have any arbitrary limitations but to be as open and configurable as possible. That is not bloated, that is just giving you all options you possibly could want. The learning curve for simple setups is not that steep, you don't need to use the more advanced features if you don't need them right now. But it will let you configure everything that you want and how you want later as it grows with you, as you get in to more complex models and setups. It's an investment that pays off later. Also it doesn't lack consistency or continuity, it works like OpenTX in the past, the setup is pretty much the same today as it was 6ish years ago when I started using an OpenTX radio, and all the skills from back then are applicable today, even across multiple manufacturers. I would say it actually way more consistant then everything else on the marked. I suppose too many people got sick from brands like Spektrum who charge an insane premium just to have 2 channels, and two switches more on a radio, or locking advanced features behind very, very expensive Radios, even tho the hardware is basically the same. And look to what it lead to. An open community which develops the firmware, manufacturers working with said community to bring cheap, but high quality fully fledged Transmitters to the market. It's a win-win.

Good points!

My pleasure! Thanks for watching. 😎

Yup. 4S is "only" 16.8V so you are fine with a little margin for voltage spikes on braking. 25V Caps would work fine up to 5S.

That should be a pretty solid combo.

@@RCPhysics Yeah it should, but i'm planning to get a Losi 5ive-T 2.0 next summer or fall i'll start saving for it in July of this year. So it'll be awhile before i buy any other new expensive cars or trucks. But a Limitless would be an awesome car to build someday.

Thank you! Just remember to take your time at each step to avoid common mistakes. I much prefer doing it correctly the first time vs. having to redo it over and over again because I tried to rush things. 😎

@@RCPhysics Got her mostly rebuilt Wednesday and i'm loving how she's driving still sorting out her steering. Eventually she'll be getting new front tires, a new custom metallic red painted body i'll also be rebuilding my driveshafts. After that i'll leave her the way she will be for awhile. then i'll be moving on to my next on road speed project which will be either an Arrma Felony or Limitless V2 haven't settled on which one yet.

Very true.

I ultimately just used Velcro. 😎

No, this video is just a year old. I did do an unboxing video a few years back when I first got it. I'm actually thinking of using it for a few more videos coming up. It's still a solid drone, but it could be a useful teaching point for using older drones now that Remote ID is a thing. I have shared this in the karma facebook groups, but feel free to reshare it. There may be some other groups out there that I am not aware of. Thanks for watching!

@@RCPhysics thanks , I dropped it on my group (GoPro Karma Fixes) as it has some real value. My page is about finding fixes to issues like the pair issue that plagued people and then we create videos on how to repair them so people can fix problems themselves. We also have a discord server where people can ask questions and get assistance on the processes that we have created. Your video fits in really well with that, I saw it a while back and remember the Kp part of the app and wanted to share it with others.

@@bozmanx What are your links? I'd like to join/follow myself. 😎

My ESC was a pre-release model, so I'm pretty sure they are just including the Castle Link with the ESC. Let me know if yours includes one when you get it. Thanks for watching!

I think we sorted this out on FB. Good luck!

Hi! I just replied to someone who asked a related question. The MT12 4-in-1 is a great radio if you are running a supported Rx protocol. Unfortunately, most of the support (right now) for the 4-in-1 module is for the aircraft-derived protocols. The multiprotocol module devs are working to add more protocols, but apparently they are a small team. In the meantime, some DSM Rx's are supported, but you'd have to check around to make sure your Rx really is supported. I use Spektrum DSM Rx's in a lot of my aircraft, so DSM is definitely supported, but Spektrum has a lot of flavors of DSM, so I'm a little nervous about giving you a 100% guaranty that it will work for you. It might be worth investigating a different low-cost high performance Rx protocol. I run the FlySky 2A protocol. You can get telemetry capable Rx's for less than $20 USD. The ELRS version is good choice if you are starting from scratch or don't mind replacing all your Rx's. The Radiomanster ELRS receivers are pretty cheap and are available with built in main-battery telemetry for no additional cost. (I have to run a separate telemetry module with my FlySky setup to get voltage data on my radio.). I hope this helps.

@@RCPhysics hey.. thanks for the info appreciated much, and more more power to your channel.

The MT12 4-in-1 is a great radio if you are running a supported Rx protocol. Unfortunately, most of the support (right now) for the 4-in-1 module is for the aircraft-derived protocols. The multiprotocol module devs are working to add more protocols, but apparently they are a small team. There is a multiprotocol module group over on the RCGroups forums that a few devs monitor. You could try posting over there and see what answers you get. In the meantime, it might be worth investigating a different low-cost high performance Rx protocol. I run the FlySky 2A protocol. You can get telemetry capable Rx's for less than $20 USD.

You are actually touching on 2 separate issues. 1) Good usages of accelerometers and 2) Warranty issues. 1) From a purely technical perspective, there is so much tuning potential that you can tap into by using the simultaneous accelerometer and power data. Using this data, a good tuner can "walk into" a great setup that gets the most out of their setups without cooking their motors or ESC. 2) Castle will totally honor warranties of ESC that fail from defects in "normal" use. The problem is that competitive drag racing and speed running is NOT "normal". Here's what I mean. In order to get the most out of a setup, you HAVE to take it right up to the edge of what it can do. If you don't, you are leaving performance on the table. This is great if you can walk right up to the line of performance, but inevitably, you WILL sometimes fall over the line and you WILL break equipment. Sadly, that is a cost of the game. NASCAR & NHRA racers blow up equipment ALL THE TIME, but that's a cost of going fast. The reason Castle ESCs can deliver so much raw performance in extreme "pro" use cases is because they were "over designed" to give a lot of performance margin in "extremely fun" use cases. That margin means the ESCs can handle the average users' "fun" with an "acceptable" failure rate. However, if you routinely take an ESC to 90-99% (or 105%), the electronics accumulate exponentially higher levels of internal stress which dramatically increases the part's failure rate. I've blown up / destroyed expensive equipment doing dumb stuff. It's really frustrating, but I understood that I was doing something dumb and didn't blame manufacturer for it. That said, I've also had equipment die in general use. Companies that are good to work with and honor their claims usually earn my long-term business. In fact, some of my first person-to-person interactions with Castle came through me filing successful warranty claims. I completely get the frustration some guys have with Castle and voided warranties. Their ESCs are NOT cheap, and no one likes the feeling of seeing a project they poured their blood, sweet, and tears into go up in smoke. That said, there are methods tuners can use to find the bleeding edge of performance without "just sending" it into the abyss.

I can not understand why a company will void a warranty if one use full throttle for about two seconds in drag racing and about five seconds in speed runs when most escs are capable of high Amps for about ten seconds. The same escs are also used in marine boats which are under load most of the time and with full throttle which is much worse! This is something that Castle should be considering regarding drag and speed runs because it is absurd in my opinion!

@@josephcaruana9165 It's not a "full throttle" or "under load" thing. It's actually a gearing and current draw thing. Batteries and ESCs don't "push" power. The motor "pulls" current based on the mechanical load it is experiencing. RCs that are set up to run at wide open for long periods (like boats and planes) are set up with props or gears that will give them a reasonable load at max RPM. A good example is a circuit racer that will be at 100% throttle for most of the track. Those RC are running wide open... at 30 or 40mph (ish), so they are generally only pulling one or two horsepower (on average). I beat the snot out of my Typhon basher, but it maxes out at ~5hp at the beginning of a power pull then falls off to ~2hp for the rest of the run. Try as I might, I rarely see more than 150A current draw on that car. This happens at the beginning of a power-pull ant then the current falls of to 60-80A. This is because it's "only" geared for ~50mph and has a very efficient drivetrain. At that load level, I could probably run flat out for minutes at a time with no issues. The problem is well-tuned speed and drag cars are geared MUCH higher, so they have exponentially higher current draws. It's pretty common for these cars to see current draws of 400-500A. That's more than twice the current of many 240V welders. waste heat in a circuit increases with the square of current, so the same ESC will produce 100X more heat in a 500A draw than during a 50A draw. Poorly tuned cars (or EXTREME builds) can pull even more current. If the system doesn't have enough cooling, all that waste heat will can destroying the ESC, motor AND batteries. This doesn't just affect Castle. TP motors recently made a post on their FB page giving tips to not fry their motors. Many high-performance batteries only warranty batteries for a few weeks and then just for workmanship issues.

Some professional drag racers do not even use any fans or cooling fins to reduce weight, but they only make race that it will only take about 1.5 seconds on full throttle, which should not damage the esc or motor because there would not be enough time to heat the components although they use around 400amps. One of the things that I noticed is that the wires on Mamba are thin and it have seven capacitors, but still, when it is geared high, the ripple goes up to around 4v on 6s which is quite high so extra capacitors are needed. For example, the XLX2 haven't got capacitors, but wires are much thicker, and with the same gearing, it only makes around 1v of ripple on 7s, so it doesn't need extra capacitors. Hope that Cobra escs would be much better!

I'll walk though this in my next MT12 video. 😎

@@RCPhysics awesome great to hear.

Thanks for watching!

Unfortunately, Venom went under a while ago. You can still find their batteries on Amazon.com, but there is no one to honor the warranty now so I can't recommend buying them anymore. That said, they are still high quality batteries and they may not be a bad deal given how poor warranties are on a lot of other battery brands.

I started speed running about 10 years ago. Most of the runs on my channel are from back when I was helping to organize the RUN DMV events in the DC area. Actually, the speed pass in the first few seconds of all my recent videos is my Slash 4x4 doing over 100mph during a Run DMV Event. That's how I caught Castle's attention and started working closely with them. I post most of my current build photos in my FB page or IG. You can see photos of my fleet there. Two of the speed cars are featured in my FB Banner photo. facebook.com/rhouse21RCPhysics I stopped posting speed run videos after the Run DMV Crew went our separate ways, but I'm planning to start running again this spring now that I've found a new suitable location near me. I currently have 5 Speed cars and enough parts on hand to build a couple more. The current speed fleet consists of... 1) An ARRMA Limitless with a Castle XLX2 ESC, Sensored 1717 motor, and one of my custom Cap Packs, This is my newest build. I bought it on a whim a few months ago, so it's still coming together. ua-cam.com/users/shortsVp_xZBPXmFo 2) A Traxxas XO-1 with a Castle XLX2 ESC, Sensored 1717 motor, and one of my custom Cap Packs. This car was actually used in the Beta Testing program of the Castle Mamba Monster X 8S and XLX2 ESCs. It's the orange XO-1 all over my FB and IG feeds. I never published any videos of this car doing speed runs because I wasn't trying to break any records or anything. I just having fun with it and use it as a testbed for the custom parts I build/3Dprint. ua-cam.com/video/hAYMBCUIYg4/v-deo.html 3) A modified Slash 4x4 On-Road Build (the other car in the banner photo of my FB page). I posted in-car footage of this car going 103 mph 7 years ago with a Castle MM2 ESC, a sensorless 1717 motor, and one of my 1st custom cap packs. I also used it to help do Beta Testing for Castle. It currently has an XLX ESC and its OG 1717 motor (keeping it old-school), but I may swap in an MMX-8S for better durability when I start doing runs again this spring. ua-cam.com/video/s-vXp4OLpbA/v-deo.htmlsi=AYccA5XpUEQbAMql 4) A Team Associated Apex 1:10 Scale speed build. This car has a Mamba X powering a sensored 1406 5700kv. It's very similar to a 4-Tec speed build, but I'm using a modified Slash 4x4 driveshaft to handle the power of the motor better without "hula hooping". ua-cam.com/video/_j2MPQHadR4/v-deo.htmlsi=pOslFE7mbhLm12CG 5) A "70mph Club" Rustler custom Aero work. This isn't technically a 100mph car right now, but I recently re-built it with a Mamba X and sensored 1415 to see how close to 100mph I can get. If it doesn't make it, I'll swap in one of my sensored 1515s and see how that turns out. ua-cam.com/video/9QXFVoZucNg/v-deo.html I've got a couple MMX-8S ESC on hand and some Castle15-series motors, so I'm debating building a Slash 2wd drag car out of parts I have on hand, but I haven't made up my mind.

Does it give any audio alerts or play tracks? It's possible the speaker came unplugged. If that's not it, you may have a bad unit and might need to do an exchange. 😕

@RCPhysics no audio at all and won't play the wav tracks, starting to think maybe the speaker is at fault, don't want to take it apart just yet as I've messaged the seller see what they say...thanks for your help👍

It sounds like you need to contact radio master. You probably have a bad radio. Chances are the audio cable to the speaker just came unplugged, so if you feel comfortable opening it up to check, that might be the solution. If you're not comfortable opening up your radio, then you just have to have them send you a replacement.

@RCPhysics will do, thanks for your help 👍

Just had this back from radiomaster and it worked, hope this may help someone else........We found this problem, cover the SD card rubber cover, if the plug is too tight, the SD card will be a little deeper, resulting in poor contact with the SD card and can not play audio files, you can open the rubber cover, eject the SD card to reinsert, rubber cover SD card position do not press too tight, you can solve the problem.

They are 10 AWG. That's about right for this ESC since it's designed as a replacement for "200 Amp" ESCs. That said, it can peak MUCH higher than that for a few moments.

??? This video wasn't sponsored in any way. I've been an OpenTX/EdgeTX user for years and was legitimately excited for this radio. That said, it's far from perfect and I've pointed out several things that need improvement or could be deal breakers for some users

Great point!

Thanks for the kind words! I agree whole heartedly. However, I'm a part of an MT12 FB group that's filled with guys who love the idea of the MT12 but can't seem to wrap their heads around setting up EdgeTX. It just reminds me why Spektrum, Sanwa, Futaba, etc. all still exist. Some folks just want a "turnkey" solution, and that's perfectly fine. I prefer being able to dive in and make things my own... and save a boatload of cash at the same time. 😎

@RCPhysics oh for sure it seems to be more difficult because we didn't have these open source scripted radios...I was a ground guy since my teens, 2012 started building and flying tri-copters then fpv and fixed wing. I'm no expert at open or edgetx but it's really not too hard to set up a simple car or drone with basic functions...then you have an endless ceiling to learn....I get it most don't get into the hobby to the depth due to time constraints. The extra money for the tx GUI simplicity would make a huge difference. That MT12 and edge has soooo many youtube vids that its easy to learn.

@@GreasypoleNation Agreed. I learned everything I know by playing around, trying stuff out, and looking at online resources.

There's no wrong choice here. It all comes down to your preferences and whether you already have a bunch of compatible receivers. I already switched to FlySky Rx's in most of my cars, so the 4-in1 version is a logical choice. If you are starting new, the ELRS version might make more sense.

@@RCPhysics and the model LB ..YOU CAN SWICH TO FCC?

The US and EU allow you to broadcast different frequencies. If you live in a different country, you will need to figure out which version is allowed. What country are you in? I might be able to help figure out which version you need.

@@RCPhysics in urope MY FRIEND MALTA

🤣

Try posting about this in the attached MT12 FB group. It is filled with guys trying to help each other get the most out of our radios and fix the problems that we are encountering. facebook.com/groups/mt12radiomaster/?ref=share&mibextid=K8Wfd2

So, you want forward but not in reverse. Hmmm. You might need to set up a logical switch that activates when you have forward throttle and then set up a special function so that the counter only moves when that special function is engaged? I will have to look at this and see if I can figure out how to make that work.

Really? What are you hearing?

@@RCPhysics some of the guys who use these reports the esc is cutting out. After close inspection and elimination of other possible causes, they say its the esc, suspected firmware needs update.

I reached out to Castle and someone pointed me to a UA-cam video highlighting the problem. In short, they found an issue under certain conditions with sensorless motors, but the sensored motors work perfectly. They said their engineers believe they have found the root cause and they will have and new firmware build that fixes this soon. I'll see if I can recreate this issue with my own ESC this weekend. I'll keep you guys posted as I learn more and will post another video once I get my hands on the fixed firmware confirming it works as intended.

@@RCPhysics good work brother.

I try. 😎

There is just so much potential with this radio and guys are unlocking even more crazy functions by writing their own LUA scripts. It's pretty exciting to see what the community comes up with.

Thanks!

Thanks!

I usually don't do tear-downs because they can seriously compromise the cooling of the ESCs afterward. I tore open an XL2 back in the day for a repair and it was never the same again. 😣

LOL!

The ARRMA BLX 200 ESC is $170 new, so this is priced about right. If you're looking for a serious upgrade versus stock equipment, this is definitely worth the money.

@RCPhysics Max8 combo bro. It's under 200. It can tear the wheels to shreds.

@@buysncharge To each their own. 😎 Lots of guys LOVE HW products. I personally love the data logging and tunability on the Castles, so I'm willing to pay the premium for them.

@@RCPhysics I'm offended at their lack of innovation and high prices and am willing to let them go. After years of loyalty.

​@@buysncharge This ESC is their attempt to stay on the leading edge. I'm sorry that they've lost your loyalty, though. I can feed your complaints back to them though if you want to give me your list.

I'll give it a try and let you know.

That's great, much appreciated, it's the only thing stopping me buy😂

Any joy?

@hanger9uk665 It works! Just select the regular FlySky protocol. Interesting side note: Remember to increment your receiver numbers when you buying your models so you have unique bindings for each vehicle. If you don't do this, you can actually have multiple cars being controlled by the same radio at the same time. I found this out the hard way when I accidentally had two cars turned on at the same time that were bound to one of my older Flysky radios. I hit the throttle to drive and two cars jumped. It scared the crap out of me!

Brilliant, thanks for checking that. And yes I expect that was a shock, you learnt the hard way😂😂 thanks again for info.

This looks pretty comparable to my Typhon, so it would probably work great!

Thanks! It's good to hear from you. I was wondering how you've been doing. 🤓

The 15-series motors are all pretty solid. I've run 1515s and 1512s. You can beat on them pretty hard and they keep coming back for more. 🤩

😂 Thanks for watching!

Thanks, Bro!

Good points. I could have went way down a rabbit hole talking about all the things that going to a 32-bit architecture can enable, but I figured that might be a little much for this video. You do have a good point about the upgrade path for a brushed motor. Sometimes going a little bit out of time is definitely the right way to play the game. Thanks for watching!

Sounds like you've got some pretty cool setups in the works. Can't wait to see them!

@@RCPhysics I sure do, but it will take some time to save up for them i also plan to do an Arrma Felony or Limitless maybe with another MMX8s\1717 combo same as Serena for the Felony or an XLX2\1721 for the Limitless.

Sweet!